The Nakasendo Trail is an historic route that dates back to the early 1700’s and was an important road connecting Kyoto to Tokyo, then known as “Edo”. Along the way there were more than 69 small villages called “post towns” where travelers would rest, obtain new supplies, but most importantly to the Shogun, they could be kept under a watchful eye as they had to register along the way.
One does not have to register these days to walk the remnants of the trail but also today, only a few of the authentic post towns remain. Perhaps the most accurate and indisputably most beautiful of those remaining is Magome, situated northeast of Nagoya. Magome provides visitors an easy way to walk through one of the most lovely towns in all of Japan. Most visitors take the bus from the Nakatsugawa train station (about 26 minutes) and hop off at the bottom of the main pathway, then going uphill a distance of approximately 3/4 of a miles. The walk is very gentle and the entire way is paved with stone pavers. An added bonus is that on the sides of the trail are flumes of rushing mountain water that gurgle past, often flowing through waterwheels.
Along the way, you can stop in one of any dozen shops, restaurants and cafes for a snack, drink or meal. There are even several ryokans at which you can stay overnight if desired and the architecture along the way is stunning Edo style with lots of dark wood and shoji screens. There are two historic museums to check out along with a broad scenic overlook at the top providing sweeping views of the mountains and valleys.
If you are really intrepid, you can continue hiking north toward the next town of Tsumago, a much smaller and less developed post town a few miles away. Just be aware that from this point, the trail really becomes a trail as it is through rougher terrain. The trail is still very walkable by any standard, but just not for those out for a light stroll. Another thing to consider is that on the trail, as in much of the mountainous terrain of Japan, one needs to watch out for bears. In recent years, bear attacks have become a serious problem for hikers and rural communities, so take it seriously if you venture onto the remote part of the Nakasendo Trail. But as for me, I’ll stick to the easy part where I can quickly dash into the charming restaurant, Daikokuya Sabo for a shaved ice.
To get to Magome, you simply take the JR train from the main Nagoya Station to Nakatsugawa (1 hr 15 minutes), then take the bus to Magome. Buses run about every 50 minutes, so if you don’t want to wait around, you can take a taxi. We’ve done both. The taxi will cost around 3,800 yen (roughly $25 at today’s exchange rate) and the bus is 750 yen per person. If you have three or more in your party, you may consider a taxi. Either way, its money well spent for one of the most enjoyable things to do in Japan.
